Voo Archive Invites

Voo Archive Invites: dot COMME

Words
Isabel Barletta
Photography
dot COMME, Daria Kolomiiets
Voo Archive Invites: dot COMME

dot COMME joins Voo Archive with pieces from one of the biggest private Comme des Garçons collections in the world. The archive is the work of Octavius La Rosa, whose personal fixation has become a reference point for collectors, researchers and institutions. Over time it has grown beyond Comme, pulling in designers in the same orbit. Junya Watanabe. Yohji Yamamoto. Issey Miyake. Walter Van Beirendonck. All connected by instinct more than history.

In Berlin, the pop-up arrives as dot COMME moves from Melbourne to Paris and takes on a more curatorial direction. Before the pop-up, we spoke with him about collecting as language, curiosity as method and keeping clothes alive long after the runway.

Voo: When did you realise you weren’t just collecting clothes, but creating a language of your own?

Octavius La Rosa: Since I was 14-15, just delving in to the world of design for the first time, I’ve always attempted to explore it from a perspective that was uniquely my own. I’ve always enjoyed the process of dressing up and I’ve been collecting various things since a young age so the two naturally intersected at some point and I leant that same enthusiasm I had for dressing up into forming an archive of the designers that inspired me. It didn’t take long before it became a complete obsession.

V: You’ve built a universe around Comme, Junya, Yohji, Miyake and Walter. What connects them for you, or maybe what separates them?

O: Each one has a very distinct vision that is uniquely their own. You could pick up a piece by any of them and it’s immediately evident that it could only have been their work. There are others of whom this is true, but these are the designers that struck a chord with me. In terms of what I wear, it’s nearly all encompassed between Comme, Walter and Yohji, I find the designs of those three designers, when blended together (with some added vintage pieces) to be so diverse that they completely embrace my every mood.


V: There’s always some movement in how you show the clothes, some energy. How do you decide what kind of life a piece should have after the runway?

O: I really just like to have fun with dressing up and I try not to take myself too seriously. Hopefully the pieces should bring you joy! I especially like to imagine who would have previously owned them and what kind of lives they’ve lived.

“I like the idea that I’m just another step in the continuity and their history, a caretaker during this life.”

V: You’ve handled many pieces that once broke rules. What still feels risky to you now?

O: Trying something new.


V: You’ve lived between Melbourne and Paris. How do those two worlds shape the way you see and handle the archive?

O: I don’t think it really has much effect on me, building a collection is something more personal, based on my own research and predilections.


V: You hold one of the biggest private Comme collections in the world, and it’s drawn the eye of museums and researchers. Do you see yourself as a guardian of cultural history, or is that too heavy a word?

O: I wouldn’t say it’s the goal but it’s certainly a happy by product. I’m more interested in creating a collection for myself, filling holes where pieces are missing and generally creating a whole that represents the vision of the designers, the period to which it belonged, and my personal tastes as well.

V: Some pieces resist being archived, they fall apart, they age, they fight you. How do you know when to preserve something and when to let it go?

O: There are certainly particular materials I will avoid. If it’s in my possession, I’ll try to protect it as best I can, but sometimes you’re fighting an uphill battle. Of course I attempt to properly care for precious pieces in the collection as best I can, but as far as things I wear on the regular, I’m not too fussy about general wear and tear.


V: Is there a line or era in the Comme universe that you think deserves a second look, maybe a full re-evaluation?

O: I love 90s Junya - every collection. I think it could certainly be more highly regarded than it currently is. They are some very unique collections, and totally ahead of the time.

V: Are there any designers today who give you that same kind of feeling, that mix of risk and clarity?

O: I really love what Kei Ninomiya has been doing, working with unusual non woven materials in new ways.


V: ⁠With the Paris reopening and this Berlin pop-up, what kind of conversation do you want dotComme to start about how fashion history lives now?

O: I’m looking to take a more curatorial approach to the business. Move the archive from Melbourne to Paris, make some exhibitions, collaborate with locals and create some fun projects and focus more on documenting and renting the collection, which up until now has been sitting in storage.

Voo Archive Invites brings external voices into the Archive, giving space to projects whose perspective expands our own.

The pieces are available in-store only and can be discovered at Voo Archive.

Wednesday to Saturday
12:00pm–6:00pm
Oranienstraße 181, 10999 Berlin