Voo Visits: Catarina Oliveira and Rui Liu

Voo: How did the two of you get to know each other, and what inspired you to start a brand together?

Catarina & Rui: We met back in 2017 at a healthy food café in Mitte and bonded over our shared love of medicinal mushrooms. At that time, these weren’t trendy, and finding a fellow adaptogen and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) enthusiast was quite rare. From the moment we met, we began travelling to biohacking summits, attending TCM conventions, and deepening our knowledge of the field together.

In 2020, we decided to bring Herbar to life, as we were both experiencing profound benefits from TCM, medicinal mushrooms, and adaptogens. We began conceptualising Herbar as a way to show that health and beauty don’t have to be mutually exclusive.

V: Catarina, coming from a sports science background, and Rui, from clinical nutrition and oncology, what inspired you to focus on skin health and adaptogenic beauty products?

C: Beauty is so much more than skin deep. Coming from both of our backgrounds, we understood that beauty, healing, and skin health start internally. Before founding Herbar, we were both on our own TCM healing journeys, focused on balancing our hormones.
For me, as an athlete, hormones were often suppressed; for Rui, working in a cancer centre for four years took a real toll on her diet and emotional well-being. We were each able to bring our bodies back to a balanced state, and along the way, we were discouraged by the lack of Eastern medicine practices available in the West. This inspired us to celebrate these principles through our formulations.

R: In Asia, skincare has always been a significant part of life, as far back as I can remember. Growing up, my mum encouraged me to take care of my skin. When I moved from China to the U.S. for my bachelor’s degree, I went through a big lifestyle change, especially with my diet. Living in Arizona’s desert climate, I found myself eating a lot of Häagen-Dazs and Doritos, without much thought to balance. Within three months, I started experiencing skin issues.
The common treatment for acne at the time was cortisone cream, but as soon as I stopped using it, the acne returned. That’s when I reconnected with my roots and started using traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) to address the underlying cause, not just the symptoms. In TCM, acne is often seen as a sign of too much ‘fire’ in the body, so the goal is to balance it by using or consuming cooling remedies. Many TCM herbs are adaptogens, and this sparked my deep interest in them. What really stood out to me was discovering that Chinese skincare brands from my mum’s generation had long used adaptogens in topical treatments. However, this was almost unheard of in the West, which inspired us to begin our own journey into this field.

V: Herbar is all about adaptogens and fungi. For someone new to these terms, could you explain what they mean?

C&R: Adaptogens are plant-based ingredients that help the body adapt to stressors by regulating responses. In skincare, they protect the skin against environmental stressors like pollution and UV rays, allowing it to adapt effectively. Not all plants or mushrooms are adaptogens; they must help the body resist physical, biological, and chemical stress without harm. Potent adaptogenic mushrooms include Reishi, Chaga, and Cordyceps, known for benefits like immune support and anti-ageing properties. Ashwagandha, Ginseng, and Rhodiola are other adaptogens that we formulate with to aid in adapting to oxidative stress. Adaptogens protect the skin by blocking pollutants and physical stressors, helping cells “return to baseline” and restoring cellular balance. While your skin naturally defends against stressors—like regulating heat, preventing infection, and protecting against water loss—adaptogens provide added support. They offer anti-inflammatory benefits that help soothe redness and sensitivity, strengthen the skin barrier, brighten the complexion, reduce pigmentation, and boost overall skin health.

V: What led you to include fungi in your formulations, and what makes them unique compared to other natural ingredients?

C&R: After witnessing the benefits of medicinal mushrooms through Traditional Chinese Medicine firsthand, we felt a responsibility to introduce them more prominently in the West and help others heal their skin disorders as we did. When we launched, adaptogenic skincare was virtually nonexistent, but now we see it growing, and we’re at the forefront of this movement. It’s both exciting and heartwarming to see so many people benefiting from these powerful extracts.

V: How much research goes into making your products?

C&R: Currently, we have three research and development teams: one in Germany, one in South Korea, and one in China. Our chemists and scientists are truly the backbone of our work. We’re constantly testing new formulations, ingredients, and plant extracts, and discovering new advancements along the way. Both of us come from backgrounds in science and Traditional Chinese Medicine, which makes us naturally curious and always eager to learn.

V: Are there any mushrooms you had to rule out because they were a little *too* fun for a skincare product?

C&R: We often emphasise that we use medicinal or functional mushrooms, not other types. These extracts have been used for centuries in Asia; for instance, Tremella is even referred to as the beauty mushroom. When selecting the mushrooms we work with, we rely on data and the clinical and empirical research that has been conducted over centuries, choosing time-proven and tested extracts. As we often say: Mushroom-led and science-backed.

V: What does your own skincare routine look like—morning or night—and where does Herbar fit in?

C: My skincare routine is fairly simple but quite experimental. I currently rotate between two cleansers, both samples from our Herbar lab that I’m testing. I always follow up with the Face Nectar and the Barrier Cream. If my skin feels extra dry or I’m in a dry climate like Berlin, I’ll add a few drops of the Face Oil to the Barrier Cream. I finish with sunscreen and a lip balm, which I’m also sampling directly from the Herbar lab.

R: My AM Routine is:
—Use warm water to gently wash the face.
—Apply the Face Nectar, followed by the Barrier Cream, and finish with sunscreen.

And my PM Routine:
—Use an oil-based cleanser to remove makeup and sunscreen.
—Apply the Face Nectar.
—Mix a few drops of the Face Oil with the Barrier Cream, then apply.

V: Do you both use Herbar products the same way, or do you have your own little tricks and favourite ways to use them?

C&R: We definitely use the products differently since my skin is quite oily and Rui’s is very dry. I also live in a hot humid climate, which requires less added moisture and Rui’s environment is quite the opposite as its cold and dry.We both love mixing The Face Oil into The Barrier Cream to create a nourishing overnight mask for extra barrier support.

V: What is something you do for your well-being that has nothing to do with skincare but is still essential?

C: Acupuncture and moxibustion—I try to do them every two days, and they make a world of difference. I tend to run cold, and moxa not only warms up the body but also helps Qi flow smoothly.Acupuncture was my go-to when rebalancing my hormones, and now I rely on it to support my body while I pour all my energy into Herbar. It’s such a great ally for health, well-being, and mental resilience.

R: I try to have a foot bath every evening before 9 PM to warm up my lower body. When your feet are warm, it’s much easier to fall asleep. A good night’s sleep allows the body to rejuvenate, and your skin reflects that renewal, showing a radiant glow.

V: Do you both use Herbar products the same way, or do you have your own little tricks and favourite ways to use them?

C&R: We definitely use the products differently since my skin is quite oily and Rui’s is very dry. I also live in a hot humid climate, which requires less added moisture and Rui’s environment is quite the opposite as its cold and dry.We both love mixing The Face Oil into The Barrier Cream to create a nourishing overnight mask for extra barrier support.

V: What is something you do for your well-being that has nothing to do with skincare but is still essential?

C: Acupuncture and moxibustion—I try to do them every two days, and they make a world of difference. I tend to run cold, and moxa not only warms up the body but also helps Qi flow smoothly.Acupuncture was my go-to when rebalancing my hormones, and now I rely on it to support my body while I pour all my energy into Herbar. It’s such a great ally for health, well-being, and mental resilience.

R: I try to have a foot bath every evening before 9 PM to warm up my lower body. When your feet are warm, it’s much easier to fall asleep. A good night’s sleep allows the body to rejuvenate, and your skin reflects that renewal, showing a radiant glow.

V: What are your future plans for Herbar? Any new products or initiatives we should look forward to?

C&R: There’s a lot happening behind the scenes that we can’t wait to share with our community! Right now, we’re testing new formulations, including cleansers, lip balms, face masks, and SPF. Each product is developed with intentional care, thoughtfulness, and an extensive sampling process that often takes over 12 months. Once they’re truly perfected, they’ll be ready for release.We’re also working to bridge the gap between our brand and community by connecting with them directly. We can share that The Herbar Spa is launching soon, exciting wellness activations that expand the viewers perception of what beauty is and you’ll soon find us permanently in London as well, which we’re very excited about!